"Surfing, alone among sports, generates laughter at its very suggestion, and this is because it turns not a skill into an art, but an inexplicable and useless urge into a vital way of life." MATT WARSHAW. This explains my attempt at progression from kook to surfer, as well as my spiritual journey as a follower of Jesus Christ. Why should I, as one so small, have such an urge to encounter one so grand and powerful as God? Yet, seeking His face is vital to my life.

25 junho 2005

Wiped and wiped out

I just got back from my first attempt at riding waves. I am so a total kook. I was probably dangerous out there. I wiped out a couple of times, and that was just my attempt at paddling out. My stick is pretty dinged up from slicing across a couple of shallow places over rocks, but thakfully not through the shell, so I should be ok. I'm a little dinged up as well. I got a couple of cuts on my feet, not too deep though. I am thrashed. Completely tired. The thing is, my board does not fit in our elevator, so anytime I want to go, I have to carry it down 13 flights of stairs and then after surfing for a few hours, and getting completely tired out, I return home to carry it up those same 13 flights of stairs.

We were out there with Keith and his son Brock. Brock was cute trying to surf on the sand. He even helped me wax my stick for the first time. They were an encouragement as was Mary Virginia, my wife and helper. I have a friend here who is a lifeguard and a surfer. He wants to teach me to surf, and after today, I am more than ready to take some lessons. Not going into the water again without someone showing me the way.

note: backdated and actually posted 25 abril 2006.

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