"Surfing, alone among sports, generates laughter at its very suggestion, and this is because it turns not a skill into an art, but an inexplicable and useless urge into a vital way of life." MATT WARSHAW. This explains my attempt at progression from kook to surfer, as well as my spiritual journey as a follower of Jesus Christ. Why should I, as one so small, have such an urge to encounter one so grand and powerful as God? Yet, seeking His face is vital to my life.

26 abril 2006

Bummer

I'm just sitting here thinking about all the great waves I am missing right now. Actually, this time of day today is probably not the best time, but it is the epoca for waves right now, and I should be hitting the beach every day. That is my plan (once we buy a car, that is). I am hoping that I can get up every morning early and drive myself and my board to the beach and hopefully meet up there with some others who are out there regularly.

For now, I have a lot of time to think about doing that, and I am still getting out there once in a while. The good thing is, next time I go to Otavio's, I don't have to worry about taking my stick, because he bought a longboard and said I can just ride his. Seriously, I really want to get into a routine of at least being in the water, and I can't rely on him because I never know if he is working or off work. Plus he always just says drop by. He is such a surfer, and a Bahiano. Very laid back and ready to leave everything to chance, whether he happens to be home or not when I drop by.

I do need to take Thomas to the beach and let him take a turn on the longboard. That is becoming a ritual for our visitors. Take them out there and let them catch a few small waves on their bellies and try to stand of a couple of times before they get pooped or sunburned or surf wax rash. Then I go out for what probably seems like an eternity (I know for me it seems like an eternity when they are in the water with my board) before we pack up and head for home. It's good times, and they get the chance to try a little of the sport with lifeguards around. That's the deal, if there are no certified salva vidas in the vicinity, I don't even go out. Not yet anyway.

2 comentários:

Sarah disse...

DUUUUDE! That is like so totally rad that you have a surfin' blog. Other blogs are like "gag me with a spoon!"
But a surfer blog is like the bomb! Totally awesome! I like want to read your blog every day, dude! So, like, rock on!

Matt disse...

Wow, thanks for the rad props. This may make me want to try to keep this blog flowing.