Mondays are my day off. Today I lugged my longboard down the stairs again, this time early in the morning and took a taxi to my friend Otavio's house. I spent the morning with him and my stick, on the beach. We started out jogging and then did some exercises to warm up. Then I spent the rest of the time paddling out and paddling back in calm water. Each time I went a little further, but he wanted to start me off completely on the basics (and from the last time I attempted to surf, that was probably a very good idea.)
So, I got a little tired and then we worked a little on popping up on a board drawn in the sand.
After the beach, we went back to his house for lunch and to relax. I was there for a few hours, but then had to get home. Mostly I just layed in a hammock and tried to talk to him about the day in Portuguese. I am still learning. So, he helped me with two new things to me right now, a new language and a new sport.
Then we walked to the bus stop together. He let me keep my board at his house, so I don't have to carry it up stairs and try to catch a taxi with a rack on it everytime I want to go over there to surf.
note: postdated. Actual publish date 25 April 2006.
"Surfing, alone among sports, generates laughter at its very suggestion, and this is because it turns not a skill into an art, but an inexplicable and useless urge into a vital way of life." MATT WARSHAW. This explains my attempt at progression from kook to surfer, as well as my spiritual journey as a follower of Jesus Christ. Why should I, as one so small, have such an urge to encounter one so grand and powerful as God? Yet, seeking His face is vital to my life.
27 junho 2005
Assinar:
Postar comentários (Atom)
Nenhum comentário:
Postar um comentário