The Gift

I have spent pretty much all my life as either a poser, a hodad, or a body surfer catching whatever waves would pick up my large frame and carry me for a few seconds toward shore. Today, that changed. I received, from my wife on our wedding anniversary, a mean green long board from right here in Salvador da Bahia, Brasil. It is a quebra coco, considered the top local board company, and a lot of surfers are already admiring the board shape. So, this begins my journey into learning to catch waves. I will start soon heading out into the waters of our beaches here, turning around and trying to raise. She gave me some bogus story about needing to help our teamates Travis and Alicia with something, and then we opened the door to a room they had not yet finished in their apartment. There it was, in its case, but I ripped that baby open to find a beautiful dream sitting there for me begging me to take it to the water. Soon my new friend. Soon.

note: This post was published 25 Abril 2006, backdated.